She arrived in Bangkok not
knowing what to expect. Her husband knew the
place, as he had made a number of business trips
there over the years.
“You’ll be happy there,” he
said. “I promise you. And the Thais are very
friendly. You’ll see.”
“But the traffic,” she said.
“And all that noise. The children . . . .”
He touched her arm
reassuringly. “There’s traffic in Sydney too,
remember. And the children will be fine. The
firm will provide us with a maid—two if you
want. You’ll have all the help you need with the
children.”
He had been right. She liked
living in Bangkok, and soon stopped missing
Sydney, where they had come from. It was easy to
keep in touch with Australian friends, too, as
they were often able to break their overseas
journeys with a stop in Bangkok.
“They stay the perfect length
of time for guests,” she wrote in a letter.
“Three days to catch up on things and then they
move on. Guests are like fish, aren’t they?
After three days they begin to go off.”
Her husband enjoyed his job. He
had reached the highest echelons of an
international firm of accountants, and had been
put in charge of the Bangkok office. They mixed
in elevated financial circles, with parties and
receptions at the houses of Thai plutocrats.
They were popular in the society of the capital,
and, being photogenic, her picture often
appeared in the pages of The Bangkok
Tatler. She went to charity auctions and
fashion launches at the silk houses. And he
liked this. “It’s good for business for you to
be seen,” he said. “Consider it work. Enjoy
yourself.”
By the end of their fourth year
there, when the boy was fifteen and the girl
thirteen, they had become so established that
the prospect of returning to Australia seemed
something remote. Yes, they would go back, but
not in the immediate future. The children had
learned Thai and had their friends in Bangkok.
They were doing well at their international
school. They had better manners than their
Australian contemporaries, and they had picked
up that subtle physical grace which the Thais
have. Australian teenagers seemed so ill at ease
in the space they occupied, and were so
gauche.
Then, on a Friday afternoon in
the monsoon season, just as a heavy purple cloud
was building up over the northern fringes of
Bangkok and the air was becoming heavy and
humid, a woman from the office knocked at the
door. She let the woman in and could tell
immediately that something had happened. The
Thais smiled in a particular way when they were
distressed, and this was such a smile. It was
always misread by foreigners—farangs as
they called them—but she understood it very well
and did not misinterpret it now. Something very
serious had happened. He’s had an
accident, she thought immediately. It’s
happened . . . .
Every eight hours somebody is
killed in a traffic accident in Bangkok, so
dense is the volume of cars, trucks, and
motorcycles. He had been in the car with his
driver, apparently, and they had turned a corner
onto a narrow street. A small elephant and its
keeper, a man from a hill tribe in the north,
had been crossing the smaller road and the car
had hit the elephant. The driver had been
relatively unharmed, but her husband had been
badly cut about the neck by flying glass. He had
been dragged out, bleeding, and because there
was no ambulance service to speak of, he had
been put into a motorbike taxi, a tœk
tœk, to be driven to a nearby clinic, his
driver trying to staunch the bleeding from his
neck. He never arrived. He died in the brightly
painted tœk tœk as it bumped its way
along the potholed road.
There was an outcry from the
firm and from those who had been campaigning to
rid the city of elephants. “They have no
business in the city,” said a prominent member
of the city administration. “This is another
example of what happens when you allow elephants
to roam around in the city. These people who
bring them in must be punished severely.” She
did not want anybody to be punished. She saw a
photograph in The Bangkok Post of the
elephant that had caused the accident, and of
his keeper, who looked so small beside his
charge and so intimidated by the presence of the
two policemen in the background. The elephant’s
left foreleg, facing the camera, had a large
gash in it, a laceration caused by the impact
with the car. She stared at the photograph, then
turned the page quickly. But she then turned
back to the photograph and looked at it again,
noticing the details—the shirt worn by the
keeper and the Buddhist amulet around his neck.
He might have thought that this amulet had saved
him, and made a victim of her husband instead,
an anonymous farang whose car was going
too fast anyway.
She could not go home. Her
parents, who were retired and living in
Melbourne, came to stay with her, and helped.
They urged her to return to Australia.
“You have to do it for the sake
of the children,” they said. “Think of them.
What are they going to do here?”
“But it’s for their sake that
I’m staying,” she said. “Look at them. They have
all their friends. They’re happy here. I don’t
want to uproot them.”
She stayed in Bangkok for a
year, a year of pain and loneliness which she
tried to disguise for the children’s sake. Her
weepy moments, alone in the apartment
overlooking the Chao Phraya River, were never
witnessed by the children, although the boy
sensed the depths of her distress, she felt, and
put his arm about her at odd moments and hugged
her to him. “You have me,” he whispered. “You’re
not alone. Remember that.”
A year after it happened she
was invited by friends for a long weekend in
their house on Samui, an island in the southern
provinces. These friends, Americans who worked
for one of the banks, were childless, and her
children, sensing a weekend without teenage
company in Samui, opted to stay with friends in
Bangkok.
The American couple lived on
the west coast of the island, near a small
village called Baan Thaling Ngam. They had spent
a great deal on the house, which perched on the
top of a hillside and was surrounded by palm
trees. It had been built in the Thai style, to
the specifications of a Bangkok architect. The
top storey had a large living room with a
balcony overlooking an emerald green sea; down
below there were several bedrooms with polished
hardwood floors and windows shuttered against
the heat. When the balcony doors were opened, a
warm breeze entered the house and kept it cool.
The breeze carried the scent of the frangipani
trees that had been planted in front of the
house, a scent that made her think of expensive
unguents and soaps.
“It’s lovely here,” she said.
“So peaceful.”
“Yes,” they said. “We’re going
to miss this place. We’ve put so much into
it.”
“Miss it?”
“Paul’s going back to New York.
We’ve decided to sell.”
She said nothing, but that
night, on the verandah, while they watched the
sun burn down over the mainland, she decide that
she would buy the house and live there. She
would come down with the children during their
school holidays and stay in the apartment in
Bangkok during term.
“I’ll buy this house from you,”
she said suddenly.
They laughed. “We hoped that
you’d say that. We wanted somebody we knew to
look after this place and its spirit house.
Thank you.”
Many a Thai house had a small
wooden spirit house in the garden; a tiny
building on a pole, resembling a birdhouse but
decorated with ribbons and flowers and offerings
for the spirits. A well-kept spirit house would
have happy spirits who would be willing to stay.
One which did not have regular offerings of
fruit would be deserted by the spirits,
spurned.
She returned to Bangkok with
pictures of the house to show to the children.
They approved of the idea. The boy, in
particular, liked the sea. They had taken him on
a number of occasions to Hua Hin and Phuket, and
it had been difficult to get him out of the
water.
“Aquatic,” her husband had
said. “Look at him. He’s like some beautiful sea
creature. An otter maybe.”
She was proved right about the
children. They took to the house immediately and
while they were on the island they largely
forgot about their Bangkok friends. The boy took
to fishing and he struck up a friendship with a
young man from a fishing community on one of the
tiny islands along the shore of Samui. They
could see the island from the house; it was a
tiny lump of rock that rose sheer out of the sea
and was topped by dense green jungle vegetation.
At the base of the rock, the fishermen had built
a few houses on stilts, made of palm straw and
thick bamboo poles. On the edge of the cliff
they had tied fishing poles, the lines dangling
down into the water to catch lobsters and crabs
which they would take into the fish market on
the large island. The boy sometimes went out
with the young man, who was about his age, and
fished from the side of the young man’s father’s
longtail boat. She watched them set off from the
beach, her son almost as browned by the sun as
the other boy, and she thought of how her
husband would have liked this. He had found it
more difficult to get over his natural reserve,
and had spoke hesitantly to the locals. “I feel
so out of place with these people,” he had said.
“So . . . so large. It’s as if I just don’t get
it.” She knew, though, that her son got it,
whatever it was.
There were other foreigners in
the area, and there was some social life amongst
them. She got to know a couple, German artists,
who had a villa further along the coast, and who
entertained on a large scale. They held several
parties each New Year, and it was at one of
these that she met one of their friends, another
Australian. He had been working in Bangkok and
was between jobs. He was renting a house on Ko
Samui for a couple of months before returning to
Australia. She spoke to him for several hours at
the party and invited him to the house the next
day. He came, and met the children. She saw her
son look at him with attention, and then look
away again.
The new friend returned her
invitation.
“My house is not nearly as nice
as this,” he said. “But there’s a pool, if the
children want to come.”
The boy did not want to go.
“I’m going fishing,” he said. “Samsook said he
would collect me at the beach. We want to get
some red snapper.”
She left them behind and went
to his house. He showed her the pool and the
living room. He had a spirit house, too, but he
had left it untended. A few flowers, now dried,
placed there by a previous tenant, were lying at
the spirits’ doorway.
“The spirits will have moved
out in disgust,” she said, half-chiding him.
“I’ll try to get them back,” he
said, laughing. “I’ll make it up to them.”
She found herself comfortable
in his company. He had an easy charm and was a
good conversationalist. She realised that since
her husband’s death there had been so much that
she had not been able to say, because there had
been nobody to say it to. She had forgotten, she
realised, what it was like to sit down with a
man, at the table, and talk to him about
anything—small things that had happened during
the day, things that people had said. And he sat
there listening, and smiling; not the Thai smile
with its numerous meanings, but a smile she
could easily understand, a flickering smile that
signalled intimacy and understanding.
He was divorced, and had been
for some years. He had not wanted the divorce,
and had tried to persuade his wife to stay. “It
was like a death,” he said, and then stopped,
realising that he had been tactless.